Glenn Exum
Glenn Exum (June 24, 1911 – March 17, 2000) numbers among the premier mountaineers in American climbing history. Exum is best remembered for ascents in the Teton Range in Wyoming.
On July 15, 1931, Exum was the first to climb a new route to the summit of Grand Teton.[1] Today the route is split into the Upper and Lower Exum Ridge Routes. The Exum Ridge remains one of the most popular routes to the summit of Grand Teton.[2]
Along with Paul Petzoldt, he founded what is now Exum Mountain Guides, the oldest Alpine guiding service in the U.S.[3] At the time Exum was a music student at the University of Idaho.[4] He did eventually become a music teacher.[5]
In the mid-1930s Exum went to climb the Alps.[6] The European mountain guides would pull their clients up difficult climbs then lower them down on the descent. Exum thought climbers would appreciate fully participating in ascending the mountain.[6] His philosophy was that "guides should provide instruction, inspire initiative and responsibility, and promote participation" and brought that vision to the guide service company.[6]
In 1955 Petzoldt sold out his part of the company to Exum.[7] In 1978 Exum sold the company to four of the guides.[8]
He climbed the Grand Teton in 1981 on the 50th anniversary ascent of the Exum Ridge.[9]
Exum died on March 17, 2000 at his home in Littleton, Colorado.[9]
References
- ^ Waters, Tim (August 27, 2007). "1931 Exum Ridge Video". Alpinist. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
- ^ Spicker, Fred. "Upper Exum Ridge". Summit Post. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
- ^ Quinn, Henry (October 16, 2025). "Devotion to the craft: Alpine guiding heritage in the Tetons". Buckrail. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
- ^ Wauters, Lexey (June 23, 2020). "High Point". Jackson Hole Magazine. Retrieved 6 March 2026.
- ^ Klobuchar, Jim (2001). "Glenn Exum, 1911-2000". American Alpine Club. Retrieved 6 March 2026.
- ^ a b c "Glenn Exum". Exum Mountain Guides. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
- ^ "Glenn Exum; Climped peaks of Alps, Rockies". Chicago Tribune. April 3, 2000.
- ^ "Exum Family and Friends Celebrate the Retirement of Dave Carman and Peter Lev". Exum Mountain Guides. June 27, 2009. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
- ^ a b "Glenn Exum Memorial". Exum Mountain Guides. Retrieved 5 March 2026.
- Teton Climbing History Summit Registers First Ascent at 20-years-old
Further reading
- Glenn Exum “Never a Bad Word or a Twisted Rope” A Collection of Climbing Stories by Glenn Exum. Compiled and edited by Charlie Craighead (1998). Published by Grand Teton Natural History Association, Moose, Wyoming.
- Ortenburger, Leigh N.; Jackson, Reynold G. (11 August 2023). A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range, 4th Edition. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-1680511970.