Exum Mountain Guides

43°44′57″N 110°43′32″W / 43.749268°N 110.725430°W / 43.749268; -110.725430 The Exum Mountain Guides is a mountain guide service based in the U.S. state of Wyoming. The guide service was founded in 1929 by Paul Petzoldt and Glenn Exum as the Exum-Petzoldt School of American Mountaineering.[1] It is the oldest mountain guiding service in North America.[2][3]

Rather than the way European guides pulled climbers with a rope during difficult sections, the company had the philosophy "that guides should provide instruction, inspire initiative and responsibility, and promote participation."[4] New climbers need to complete Exum's basic rock climbing class before making an ascent.[1] From their base in Grand Teton National Park near Jenny Lake, Exum Mountain Guides provide guided climbing trips throughout the Teton Range and in other nearby mountain ranges. Numerous climbers have worked for the guide service, some who have pioneered new climbing routes on other mountains all over the world.[5]

In 1955 Petzoldt sold out to Exum.[6] In 1978 Exum sold the company to four of the guides:Peter Lev, Al Read, Rod Newcomb and Dean Moore.[7]

They employed about 65 guides in 2025.[8] They claim to have more American Mountain Guides Association certified guides than any other guide service in the US. Exum and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides are the only authorized climbing guides in Grand Teton National Park.[8]

Notable guides

References

  1. ^ a b Wauters, Lexey (June 23, 2020). "High Point". Jackson Hole Magazine. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  2. ^ Stout, Monica (December 16, 2025). "Film on mountaineering history, Petzoldt's legacy to debut at AlpinFilm". Buckrail. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  3. ^ Geil, Kimberly E.; Youngs, Yolanda (2017). "Oral histories of Exum Mountain Guides who began guiding between1947 and 1965". Department of Global Studies, Idaho State University.
  4. ^ "Glenn Exum". Exum Mountain Guides. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  5. ^ a b Solomon, Christopher (June 19, 2012). "Grand Slammed". Outside. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  6. ^ "Glenn Exum; Climped peaks of Alps, Rockies". Chicago Tribune. April 3, 2000.
  7. ^ "Exum Family and Friends Celebrate the Retirement of Dave Carman and Peter Lev". Exum Mountain Guides. June 27, 2009. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  8. ^ a b Quinn, Henry (October 16, 2025). "Devotion to the craft: Alpine guiding heritage in the Tetons". Buckrail. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  9. ^ Unsoeld, Willi (1960). "The life of a Teton guide". American Alpine Club. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  10. ^ Wiltsie, Gordon. "Alex Lowe, 1958-1999". American Alpine Club. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  11. ^ Gabriel, Trip (May 8, 1986). "Give him enough rope". Rolling Stone. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  12. ^ Dorworth, Dick. "Climbing to freedom". The sustainable play reader. Retrieved 3 March 2026.
  13. ^ "Jim Donini". BC Mountaineering Club. 2019. Retrieved 3 March 2026.

Further reading

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