Shion Omata
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | March 23, 2006 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Education | Nippon Sport Science University (Nittaidai) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 162 cm (5 ft 4 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Competition lead climbing | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | 2024 Asian Championships Lead Winner.[1] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on February 27, 2025 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Shion Omata (小俣 史温, Omata Shion, born March 23, 2006)[2] is a Japanese rock climber who specializes in competition lead climbing.
Omata started climbing on the IFSC Climbing World Cup circuit in 2023, placing 8th and 5th in the Villars and Briançon lead world cups respectively.[3][4] He won the silver medal in the Wujiang world cup in his debut senior year.[5]
In 2024, Omata was a finalist in 4 of 6 of the Lead World Cups, earning bronze in Briançon and Seoul.[6][7] He also claimed the 2024 Lead title at the IFSC Climbing Asian Championships in Tai'an.[8]
Rankings
| Discipline[9] | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 4 | 2 | 10 |
| Discipline[10] | Seoul 2025 |
|---|---|
| Lead | 12 |
| Discipline | 2022 Youth A[11] |
2023 Youth A[12] |
2024 Juniors[13] |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 5 | 2 | 3 |
| Discipline | 2024[14] |
|---|---|
| Lead | 1 |
| Discipline[15] | 2019 | 2020 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 | 2026 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 62 | 19 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 2 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 30 | 37 | - | 33 |
Number of medals at the IFSC Climbing World Cup
Lead
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2024 | 2 | 2 | ||
| Total | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 |
References
- ^ "IFSC Asian Sport Climbing Championships 2024: Omata Shion, Tanii Natsuki claim Japanese sweep of Lead titles". olympics.com. Retrieved 27 February 2025.
- ^ "OMATA Shion". IFSC. Retrieved 27 February 2025.
- ^ "Garnbret and Schubert win Villars IFSC Lead World Cup 2023". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Briançon: Vita Lukan and Anraku Sorato clinch first lead World Cup wins". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "Japan and China dominate IFSC World Cup Lead and Speed - Wujiang 2023". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "TEAM JAPAN DOMINATE LEAD FINALS IN BRIANÇON WITH MURASHITA AND KOTAKE". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "IFSC World Cup Seoul 2024 + Overall Champions". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Asian Sport Climbing Championships 2024: Omata Shion, Tanii Natsuki claim Japanese sweep of Lead titles". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "SHION OMATA". Retrieved 27 February 2025.
- ^ "IFSC World Championships Seoul 2025 - Lead General Results-".
- ^ "IFSC - Climbing Youth World Championships (B,S,L) - Dallas (USA) 2022". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships Seoul 2023". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships Guiyang 2024". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "小俣、谷井がリードV 女子は日本勢大会3度目の表彰台独占【クライミングアジア選手権2024". Retrieved 20 June 2025.
- ^ "SHION OMATA". Retrieved 27 February 2025.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (February 27, 2025). "Omata's profile and rankings". Retrieved February 27, 2025.
External links
- JMSCA profile (in Japanese)