Seli-topi

A seli-topi is a traditional garment from Punjab. The word seli refers to a skein of twisted, woolen thread and a topi is a head-cap.[1] According to Bhagat Bedi, the seli was a black-string that was sometimes worn on the topi (hat) or on the neck (chhara) in a manner akin to a necklace or gatra.[2] The seli had five tassels attached to it.[3]

History

Hinduism

The seli and topi play a role in the succession ceremony for the Vaishnavist religious institutions of Pindori and Damtal in Punjab, as a black woolen thread seli and a topi cap are received from the Jogi establishment of Jakhbar to be placed upon the new Mahant of the institutions, considered critically important items for the succession ceremony.[4] The garment can also be found amongst the Kabirpanthis.[3]

Sikhism

In Sikhism, the garment is associated with the early Sikh gurus and its wearing was continued by the Udasi sect.[5] At Cherisarma, near the Samye monastery, there is a peak-shaped mountain that locals believe to be the seli-topi of Guru Nanak.[6]

According to Jvala Singh, the seli topi was worn by the first five Sikh gurus rather than a turban.[7] It was only during the period of the sixth Sikh guru, Guru Hargobind, that the turban gained prominence amongst the Sikhs.[7] Guru Hargobind tied a turban rather than donning the traditional seli topi of the predecessory gurus.[7] Later, the practice of tying a turban became fully tied to Sikhs with the formalization of the Khalsa order by Guru Gobind Singh in 1699.[7] According to Gurbilas Patshahi Chhevin, Guru Hargobind changed the custom of seli and topi to gatra and dumalla.[2] As per Giani Gian Singh, when Guru Hargobind was given the seli-topi (presented by Baba Buddha during his succession[8]), he remarked that he should be given two-swords instead and that the seli-topi be given to the Bedis instead. Baba Gurditta, son of Guru Hargobind, adorned the seli-topi.[9] A seli and topi in the possession of Baba Gurditta's descendants at Kiratpur is evidence that Sri Chand had passed them to Gurditta, with the guru's permission.[10] It is believed that on the occasion of the wedding Rup Kaur, daughter of Guru Har Rai, Mata Bassi presented Rup Kaur with five gifts, including Guru Nanak's seli and topi.[11]

According to the Bedi Foundation, it was a custom to pass-on pothi-mala, the seli-topi and padam of Guru Nanak to the next Guru until Guru Ram Das, as Prithi Chand and the Minas stole the possessions.[12] The present custodians of the Pothimala institution in Guru Har Sahai claim to possess the seli-topi, made out of silk but damaged and having a protective outer case sewn to the original.[13][14][15] They practice a tradition of the Gaddi Nashin of Pothimala wearing the topi on New Sambat day every year.[13] Another seli-topi claimed to have been worn by the first five Sikh gurus is kept at the fort in Kartarpur, Jalandhar district, Punjab, India.[16][17]

Islam

The attire is worn by Sufis and also by fakirs of the school of Pir Bahaw Din.[18][19]

In artwork

Older, historical artwork of Guru Nanak frequently depicts him wearing a seli-topi.[18] At least three different types of topis have been depicted as being worn by Nanak in historical paintings.[2] Bhagat Singh Bedi has incorporated the seli-topi in his paintings, alongside a tilak and mala (rosary), depicting some Sikh gurus to increase their historical accuracy as opposed to commonplace anachronistic works.[2]

See also

References

  1. ^ Singh, Roopinder (2004). Guru Nanak: His Life & Teachings. Rupa Publications. p. 5.
  2. ^ a b c d Bedi, Bhagat Singh (11 November 2019). "New Sikh Painting: Guru Nanak Dev ji – Supper at Bhai Lalo ji's House". Sikhi Art. Retrieved 17 March 2026.
  3. ^ a b Encyclopaedia of Indian Mysticism: Sufi Saints and Mysticism. Mrs Rani Kapoor for Cosmo Publications. 1999. p. 187. ISBN 9788170209300.
  4. ^ Kaur, Sukhdeep. Diversity, Pluralist Practices and Religious Identities in 19th Century Punjab (PDF). Amritsar: Guru Nanak Dev University. p. 73. At Pindori and Damtal, a Seli or black woolen thread and a topi or cap, were received from the Jogi establishment of Jakhbar to be placed upon the person of the new Mahant. This ritual is of such importance that without it the ceremony is deemed to be incomplete. A topi which could be taken to be the symbol of the precedence of the Jogi establishment, together with a chola or overgarment, is still draped over the Smadhs of the Mahant of Pindori
  5. ^ Singh, Nidar; Singh, ‎Parmjit (2008). In the Master's Presence: The Sikhs of Hazoor Sahib. Vol. 1. Kashi House. ISBN 9780956016805. Seli topi: A woollen cord hat; in the Sikh tradition, the seli topi is most identifiable with Guru Nanak. It was passed onto his successors, then to Udasi mendicants, the most successful Sikh missionaries.
  6. ^ Grewal, Dalvindar Singh (1995). Guru Nanak's Travel to Himalayan and East Asian Region: A New Light. National Book Shop. pp. 56, 89. ISBN 9788171161775.
  7. ^ a b c d Singh, Manvir (21 June 2025). "Why I Wear the Turban". The New Yorker. Retrieved 25 June 2025. Modern portraits of the founder of Sikhism, Nanak Dev, show him beturbanned, but historians such as Jvala Singh, at Berkeley, insist that this is a historical misrepresentation. The first five gurus, a succession of prophet-leaders, likely donned the seli topi, a woven cap worn by Hindus and Muslims and associated with humility and spiritual living. The turban, Singh argues, wasn't widely adopted until the time of the sixth guru, Hargobind. Responding to persecution by India's Mughal rulers—and the torture and execution of his father—Hargobind militarized Sikhism. He carried two swords, solicited offerings of arms and horses, and swapped the saintly topi for the kingly turban. Roughly a century later, in 1699, the tenth guru prohibited baptized Sikhs from cutting their hair, and the turban became enshrined as a martial and spiritual requirement for men.
  8. ^ Dilgeer, Harjinder Singh (1980). The Akal Takht. Punjabi Book Company. p. 18. When Guru Hargobind, was installed the Guru, Baba Budha presented him the traditional seli (rosary), topi (cap) and manji (cot). Guru Hargobind told him, 'My seli shall be a sword-belt and I shall wear my turban with a royal aigrette.'
  9. ^ Nayyar, Gurbachan Singh (1998). Guru Haragobind in Sikh Tradition: Based on Acknowledged Conventional Sources. National Book Organisation. pp. 111, 113. ISBN 9788185135946.
  10. ^ Journal of Sikh Studies, Volume 21, Issue 2. Department of Guru Nanak Studies, Guru Nanak Dev University. 1997. p. 55.
  11. ^ Kaur, Daljit (2025). Bibi Roop Kaur: First Sikh Women Historian. Mata Sundri College for Women. pp. 1–20.
  12. ^ "Pothi Mala of Guru Nanak and the Aad Granth of Guru Arjan Dev". Bedi Foundation. 2022. Retrieved 17 March 2026.
  13. ^ a b "POTHIMALA GALLERY: Guru Nanak Dev Ji's Topi". Pothimala. 2001. Archived from the original on 25 June 2004. Retrieved 17 March 2026.
  14. ^ "Relics". Pothimala Guru Har Sahai. 2001. Archived from the original on 2 April 2009. Retrieved 17 March 2026.
  15. ^ Sodhi, Diamond (25 October 2020). "Wall Paintings of Guru Harsahai & Relics from Guru Nanak's Time - The Relics of Pothimala". YouTube. The Sikh Foundation International. Timestamps 26:50–28:43. Retrieved 17 March 2026.
  16. ^ "Relics: SELI TOPI". Baba Wadbhag Singh Trust. Greenford, United Kingdom. Retrieved 17 March 2026. This Seli Topi was worn by Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Sri Guru Angad Dev Ji, Sri Guru Amar Dass Ji, Sri Guru Ram Dass Ji & Sri Guru Arjan Dev Ji. Presently it is lying at The Fort, Kartarpur District Jalandhar (Pb.) India
  17. ^ "Relics - SELI TOPI". Dera Guru Bhadbhag Singh Sodhi Ji. Archived from the original on 18 May 2008. Retrieved 17 March 2026.
  18. ^ a b Lally, Jagjeet (Dec 20, 2023). "2.4.2 Nanak and Sikhism". India and the Early Modern World. Taylor & Francis. ISBN 9781003816812.
  19. ^ Kohli, Surindar Singh. Travels of Guru Nanak. Patiala: Publication Bureau, Panjab University. p. 161.
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