Pizza in North Korea

North Korea has several restaurants serving pizza.[a] Most people in the country cannot afford pizza, and it is mostly available for the elite. Pyongyang has five restaurants that serve pizza, including Pizza Restaurant on Kwangbok Street and Italy Pizza on Mirae Scientists Street. Kim Jong Il hired Italian chefs to train North Koreans in pizza making and introduced it to the country.

History

North Korean leader Kim Jong Il, who was noted for his lavish culinary habits, made efforts to introduce international cuisine in the 1990s.[2] In the spring of 1997, he had pizzaiolo Ermanno Furlanis flown into Pyongyang, along with another Italian chef and both of their wives, to train North Korean generals in pizza-making for three weeks.[2][3] The Italian chefs brought two pizza ovens, which were allegedly intercepted by CIA agents at the Berlin airport.[3]

Furlanis described his experience in a three-part series for Asia Times Online in August 2001.[2] He wrote that he was subjected to an extensive medical examination and tests of his cooking skill before he could begin instruction, and noted that his pupils measured the distance between olives. "I could not explain the concept of creativity", he noted.[2]

All day I was only expected to prepare 10 or 20 pizzas, and this usually took me no more than a couple of hours. My pupils gravely noted down the most trivial details and gradually began doing much of the work themselves, picking up my techniques with amazing rapidity.

— Ermanno Furlanis[2]

Pizza Restaurant

In 2008, North Korean chefs were sent to Naples and Rome for training in Italian pizza and pasta. Kim did not authorize the opening of the country's first pizzeria until December 2008,[4] after chefs had mastered pizza preparation with "repeated trial and error", as reported by Choson Sinbo, a North Korea-aligned newspaper published in Japan.[5]

The restaurant, called Pizza Restaurant,[b] opened on Kwangbok Street. Its chefs used flour, butter, and cheese that had been flown in from Italy, as well as an Italian pizza oven.[5][7][8][9] Pizza Restaurant was managed by Kim Sang-Soon, who said Kim believed "the people should also be allowed access to the world's famous dishes".[7]

According to Choson Sinbo, Pizza Restaurant was busy in the months following its opening, and provided many of its customers with their first Italian meals.[4] Its menu in 2010 included 11 traditional pizzas, though Italian food comprised only two-fifths of the menu. The Korea Times called it "Pyongyang's best pizzeria".[1] Lonely Planet listed it as "pretty decent".[10]

In response to publicity about Pizza Restaurant, London-based South Korean artist Kim Hwang created a short film series, "Pizzas for the People". After filming in South Korea and premiering at a festival in Heidelberg, the series was burned onto 500 DVDs, which five smugglers brought across the border into North Korea.[10][8] The series satirizes the exclusivity of pizza in North Korea and combines elements of a cooking show and mockumentary.[8][10][9] It presents aspects of Western democracy, and demonstrates how make potato dough pizza with tofu instead of cheese and a liquor bottle as a rolling pin.[11][8] Kim Hwang's smugglers brought back fan mail from viewers, but he did not know how many North Koreans the film series reached.[9]

Additional pizzerias

According to travel writer Jamie Fullerton, Pyolmuri Café, a European-style café that opened with funding from the Adventist Development and Relief Agency, was the first restaurant in Pyongyang to serve pizza.[6][8]

In 2011, a new pizzeria owned by Corital, an Italian–North Korean joint venture, was reported to serve Coca-Cola. Coca-Cola said it did not authorize the sale of the product, which would violate United States sanctions against North Korea.[12][13]

The third Italian restaurant in Pyongyang, Italy Pizza, opened in late 2015 as part of the launch of Mirae Scientists Street.[14] It serves less traditional pizza than the Kwangbok Street pizzeria. Its staff performs live music twice a day.[1] Vice described its decor as "1970s cruise liner-level kitsch" and its pizza as "pretty good" despite being served without cheese.[14] The restaurant existed before the redevelopment of Mirae Street, when the building was replaced with another at the same location.[15]

Popularity

As of 2021, Pyongyang has five restaurants that serve pizza.[15] It has more Italian restaurants than Chinese restaurants.[6] North Korean street markets, a major source of food, sell pepperoni pizza for wealthy customers.[16] North Korean foreign propaganda videos, such as the Echo of Truth YouTube series, have shown pizzerias.[17][18]

In 2018, a pizza cost about US$5 to US$10 ($6 to $13 in 2025), which most North Koreans cannot afford. Pizza is eaten by Pyongyang elites, diplomats, and foreigners.[8] A pizza may cost a month's salary for a middle-ranking official.[19] Since middle- and upper-class individuals are allowed to live in cities, Western-style restaurants have become popular in Pyongyang.[14]

Restaurants serve pizza with traditional toppings, as well as local varieties like kimchi pizza. All restaurants, including pizzerias, serve familiar dishes in North Korean cuisine. Most customers order these rather than pizza.[15]

See also

Notes

  1. ^ Written in Hangul as 삐짜, rather than the South Korean spelling of 피자.[1]
  2. ^ Also known as Italian Restaurant.[6]

References

  1. ^ a b c Dunbar, Jon (July 7, 2020). "Dining at Pyongyang's best pizzeria". The Korea Times. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  2. ^ a b c d e Furlanis, Ermanno (August 2001). "I made pizza for Kim Jong-il". Asia Times Online, Heartland. Translated by Yajun, Jiang. Part 1: Welcome to megalopolis, Part 2: Hot ovens at the seaside and Part 3: The great man eats, archived at the Internet Archive.
  3. ^ a b Carroll, Rory (2001-04-27). "Leaders of starving Koreans flew in chefs". The Guardian. Retrieved 2025-01-03.
  4. ^ a b "First North Korean pizzeria opens". BBC News. March 16, 2009. Archived from the original on November 29, 2011. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  5. ^ a b "Pizzas, pastas on Pyongyang plates". China Daily. 2009-03-16. Retrieved 2025-01-03.
  6. ^ a b c Fullerton, Jamie (February 19, 2018). "A Guide to North Korean Food from a Man Who's Been Eating It for 14 Years". Vice. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  7. ^ a b Burkeman, Oliver (March 15, 2009). "After 10 years of leader's heroic struggle, pizza comes to North Korea". The Guardian. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  8. ^ a b c d e f Mejia, Paula (May 9, 2018). "The Politics of Smuggling Pizza-Making Videos Into North Korea". Atlas Obscura. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  9. ^ a b c Castrodale, Jelisa (April 25, 2018). "A South Korean Artist Smuggled These Pizza-Making Instructions into North Korea on 500 DVDs". Vice. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  10. ^ a b c Felden, Esther (April 22, 2018). "'Pizzas for the People' of North Korea". Deutsche Welle. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  11. ^ Woo, Jaeyeon (February 25, 2011). "Tofu Pizza Recipe For North Koreans". The Wall Street Journal. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  12. ^ Kim, Young-jin (August 31, 2012). "Coca-Cola says sale by North Korea 'unauthorized'". The Korea Times. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  13. ^ Ryall, Julian (August 31, 2012). "Coca-Cola denies 'cracking' North Korea". The Daily Telegraph. Archived from the original on September 6, 2013. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  14. ^ a b c Fullerton, Jamie (November 2, 2016). "MUNCHIES in North Korea: A Visit to Pyongyang's Newest Pizza Joint". Vice. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  15. ^ a b c Darby, Taylor (November 10, 2021). "A diplomat's life: Dining on pizza and 'meat in bread' in Pyongyang restaurants". NK News. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  16. ^ Glum, Julia (November 4, 2017). "What Do People Eat in North Korea? A Lot of Corn, Pizza and 'Man-Made Meat'". Newsweek. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  17. ^ Williams, Martyn (July 17, 2020). "North Korea's Foreign Propaganda Takes a Step Towards Modernity". 38 North. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  18. ^ Fritz, Martin (October 15, 2020). "North Korea's charm offensive". Deutsche Welle. Archived from the original on August 22, 2024. Retrieved August 22, 2024.
  19. ^ Ford, Glyn (Winter 2018). "The Pyongyang paradox". Soundings (67): 138. eISSN 1741-0797. ISSN 1362-6620.
  • Media related to Pizzerias in North Korea at Wikimedia Commons