Marianne Chapuisat

Marianne Chapuisat (born 17 January 1969) is a Swiss mountaineer. Chapuisat is recognized as being the first woman to summit an eight-thousander in the winter season.

Background

Chapuisat was born in Vevey, Switzerland on 17 January 1969.[1] At age 17, she joined a local alpine club and began mountaineering.[2]

In 1991, Chapuisat summited Aconcagua, her highest summit to date.[3]

On 10 February 1993, Chapuisat successfully summitted Cho Oyu, becoming the first woman to summit one of world's highest peaks during the winter season.[4] It would take 25 years before another woman would match her accomplishment, when Elisabeth Revol summited Nanga Parbat in 2018.[5]

Chapuisat later described her successful summit as "beginner's luck", as she considered herself only a part time mountaineer. It would be several years before she returned to the Himalayas. In 2000, she attempted to be the first Swiss woman to summit Mount Everest.[1][6] Chapuisat had to turn back 180 meters from the summit due to poor weather.[7]

In 2003, Chapuisat summited Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I. In 2005, she summited Nanga Parbat.[1] Chapuisat completed all of her four summits alpine-style, without using supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters.[7]

References

  1. ^ a b c "Marianne Chapuisat, la pionera del ochomilismo invernal femenino". Desnivel.com (in Spanish). 2019-01-17. Retrieved 2026-02-16.
  2. ^ "MARIANNE CHAPUISAT PIONERA DEL OCHOMILISMO EN INVERNAL" (in European Spanish). Retrieved 2026-02-16.
  3. ^ Annapurna, Kris (February 10, 2026). "Cho Oyu 1993: The First Female Winter Ascent of an 8,000m Peak". Explorer's Web.
  4. ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu in Winter, 1993". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2026-02-16.
  5. ^ "AAC Publications - Nanga Parbat: Second Winter Ascent, First Complete Ascent of Northwest Face, and Rescue". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2026-02-16.
  6. ^ "Marianne Chapuisat, la prima donna su un 8000 in inverno". MOUNT LIVE (in Italian). 2026-02-10. Retrieved 2026-02-16.
  7. ^ a b "Marianne Chapuisat: «Le Nanga Parbat, entre ciel et gentianes» - Le Temps" (in French). 2012-08-13. ISSN 1423-3967. Retrieved 2026-02-16.
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