Gable hood

A gable hood, English hood or gable headdress is an English woman's headdress of c. 1500–1550, so called because its pointed shape resembles the architectural feature of the same name. The contemporary French hood was rounded in outline and unlike the gable hood, less conservative, displaying the frontal part of the wearer's hair.

Description

The gable hood was originally a simple pointed hood with decorated side panels called lappets and a veil at the back. Over time, it became a complex construction stiffened with buckram, having a box-shaped back and two tube-shaped hanging veils at 90-degree angles. The hanging veils and lappets could be pinned up in a variety of ways to make complex headdresses.

Generally, the gable hood consisted of four parts: the paste, lappets, veil, and decorative jewels (for the most aristocratic only). The paste was a white, stiffened version of the coif, with drawstrings at the back to adjust to the wearer's head. The lappets were then pinned to the paste, and either left to hang or pinned to the side of the head; the veil was then attached. The jewels were mounted on a stiff foundation that could be sewn to the paste, acting not only as decoration but as something to create a more rigid structure. A striped silk undercap could also be worn to fully cover the hair.

Tudor court

The privy purse accounts of Elizabeth of York include payments to Mistress Lokke, a silkwoman, who supplied her with frontlets and bonnets, and for the purchase of a gold frontlet.[1] After her marriage in 1514, when making a Royal Entry to Abbeville, Mary Tudor, Queen of France, wore a gown of cloth of silver and an English-style gable hood.[2] In 1517, Lady Catherine Gordon, the Scottish widow of Perkin Warbeck, owned a gold "flat chain for paste" for wearing on her hood.[3]

In 1537, Queen Jane Seymour forbade her gentlewomen from wearing the newly fashionable French hood, apparently preferring the gable style.[4] John Husee informed Lady Lisle that her daughter, as an attendant to the Queen, was required to instead wear a "bonnet and frontlet of velvet", lamenting that it "became her nothing so well as the French hood".[5]

See also

References

  1. ^ Nicholas Harris Nicolas, Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York (London: Pickering, 1830), p. 14, 68, 92.
  2. ^ Nadia T. van Pelt, Intercultural Explorations and the Court of Henry VIII (Oxford, 2024), pp. 149–150.
  3. ^ John Montgomery Traherne, Historical notices of Matthew Cradock (Llandovery, 1840), p. 16.
  4. ^ Karen Margrethe Høskuldsson, 'From Hennin to Hood', Medieval Clothing and Textiles, 17 (2023), p. 170. doi:10.1017/9781800101371.007
  5. ^ Mary Anne Everett Green, Letters of Royal and Illustrious Ladies of Great Britain, 2 (London: Colburn, 1846), p. 314.
  • Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914, Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5
  • Ashelford, Jane: A Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century, Drama Books, 1983. ISBN 0-89676-076-6
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