Doug Robinson (climber)

Doug Robinson (b. 1945)[1] is an American rock climber. He has been called the father of clean climbing in Yosemite.[2][3] Clean climbing is about replacing pitons and other bash-in gear with chocks and hexes so they are easier to remove and cause less damage to rocks.[4]

In 1972 he was featured in a National Geographic article about his climb of Half Dome without using pitons, which brought great awareness to the success of clean climbing and catalyzed a rapid change of attitude in the climbing community against pitons.[5][6] The philosophy was shared in the 1972 Chouinard Equipment catalog.[7] It was also advocated in the catalog from company owners Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost.[4] Notable because at the time pitons were their best selling product.[4]

Robinson grew up in Los Altos Hills, California.[6] After high school he lived with John Fischer in tents on ranch land and attended Foothill College where he obtained an English degree.[6] He later taught there with courses in guiding, climbing, and mountaineering.[6]

Robinson was elected the first President of the American Mountain Guides Association.[8]

References

  1. ^ Glandorf, Lee; Gohlich, Andy. "Mindfulness and the Mountain". Tracksmith. Retrieved March 7, 2026.
  2. ^ Brad Rassler. "Running Talus Moving over stone, and life, with the father of clean climbing, Doug Robinson." Climbing 165, p. 78, Dec.15, 1996 – Feb. 1, 1997.
  3. ^ Raleigh, Duane (September 16, 2014). "Moving Over Stone With Doug Robinson". Rock & Ice.
  4. ^ a b c Hung, MaiLee (February 4, 2022). "Bring Back Clean Climbing". Patagonia. Retrieved March 7, 2026.
  5. ^ "The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History". Outside Online. May 1, 2016. Retrieved September 28, 2021.
  6. ^ a b c d Rassler, Brad (1997). "Running Talus". sustainable play reader. Climbing. Retrieved March 7, 2026.
  7. ^ Rowell, Galen A. (1973). "Chouinard Equipment". American Alpine Club. Retrieved March 7, 2026.
  8. ^ "The Story of AMGA". American Mountain Guides Association. Retrieved March 7, 2026.

Further reading

  • Robinson, Doug (January 1, 2013). The Alchemy of Action. Moving over stone. ISBN 0989855104.
  • Robinson, Doug (1996). A Night on the Ground, a Day in the Open. La Crescenta, California: Mountain N' Air Books. ISBN 9781879415157.
  • The Climber as Visionary 1969 article by Robinson
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