DNA (climb)
| DNA | |
|---|---|
| Location |
|
| Climbing area | La Ramirole (Verdon Gorge) |
| Route type | Sport climb |
| Vertical gain | c. 55 m |
| Pitches | 1 |
| Rating | 9c (5.15d) (proposed) |
| Bolted by | Sébastien Bouin |
| First free ascent | Sébastien Bouin, 29 April 2022 |
DNA is a single-pitch sport climbing route at the La Ramirole sector of the Verdon Gorge in France. It was bolted by French climber Sébastien Bouin and first climbed by him on 29 April 2022, with Bouin proposing a grade of 9c (5.15d).[1][2]
Climbing media described the proposal as potentially the second sport route graded 9c (5.15d) after Silence (2017).[1][2] as of January 2026, DNA had not been repeated, and was listed as one of three routes then described as being graded 9c (5.15d) and unrepeated.[3]
History
PlanetMountain reported that Bouin scoped and bolted DNA in 2019, then worked the project over multiple seasons before completing the first ascent in April 2022.[1] UKClimbing and PlanetMountain reported approximately 250 attempts over about 150 days of work prior to the ascent.[1][2]
Grade proposal
Bouin stated that he debated between suggesting 9b+ (5.15c) and 9c (5.15d) before proposing 9c (5.15d), describing it as a proposal that would require repeat attempts to confirm or adjust.[1][2] PlanetMountain noted that other top-end routes have seen grades revised after repeat ascents, citing Bibliographie as an example.[1]
Route
PlanetMountain described DNA as approximately 55 metres long, located in the steep limestone cave of La Ramirole.[4] UKClimbing described the route as beginning with sustained climbing (reported as around 8c (5.14b) for the initial quickdraws) into a rest, followed by multiple boulder-style cruxes (reported as around 8A and 8A+) and a difficult finish (reported as around 8c+ (5.14c)).[2]
Ascents and attempts
| Date | Climber | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 29 April 2022 | Sébastien Bouin | First ascent; proposed grade 9c (5.15d).[1][2] |
| November 2022 (reported March 2023) | Jakob Schubert | Attempted the route and reported progress without a complete ascent.[5] |
| 2024 (reported December 2024) | Adam Ondra | Attempted the route; no reported ascent.[4][6] |
Film
DNA and Bouin’s first-ascent process were featured in a Reel Rock film segment titled DNA (Reel Rock, Series 9 Episode 4), distributed online via Red Bull TV in 2023.[7] The segment is also listed as part of the Reel Rock 17 collection on Reel Rock’s streaming platform.[8]
See also
References
- ^ a b c d e f g "Seb Bouin deciphers DNA, possible new 9c in Verdon Gorge, France". PlanetMountain. 5 May 2022. Retrieved 25 January 2026.
- ^ a b c d e f "DNA 9c (?) by Seb Bouin". UKClimbing. 5 May 2022. Retrieved 25 January 2026.
- ^ "9c – These are the hardest sport climbing routes in the world". Lacrux Climbing Magazine. 25 January 2026. Retrieved 25 January 2026.
- ^ a b "Video: Adam Ondra vs DNA, Seb Bouin's 9c in the Verdon Gorge". PlanetMountain. 9 December 2024. Retrieved 25 January 2026.
- ^ "Schubert tries Bouin's DNA (9c)". 8a.nu. 17 March 2023. Retrieved 25 January 2026.
- ^ "Ondra projects DNA (9c) together with Schubert". 8a.nu. 9 December 2024. Retrieved 25 January 2026.
- ^ "Reel Rock S9 E4: DNA". Red Bull. 28 November 2023. Retrieved 25 January 2026.
- ^ "Reel Rock 17". Reel Rock. Retrieved 25 January 2026.